Denise Goldberg's blog

Hawaii dreaming
Around the Big Island - a visit to see the wonders of Pele

Sunday, March 30, 2003

Lodging... where I plan to spend the night

Here's a list of the places where I plan to stay. I'm amazed that I did my research, made a first choice for each location, called, and got my first choice every time. Now here's hoping that my first choice was the right one.

When I'm traveling by bike, I like to be able to walk to dinner. Most of these accomodations fit this criteria - the only one that is slightly off is my night in Na'alehu where the B&B web site states that there are 5 restaurants within 2 miles. Assuming the worst case - a 2-mile walk to dinner and a 2-mile walk back isn't too bad (ok, ok, I know I can ride my bike!) - I just don't know how I'll feel about that after riding 60+ miles!

Update on May 27th: I've added some notes about each of my lodging choices. I was very happy with all of these places, and I will happily stay in them again when I return to Hawaii!

Kailua-Kona --- Kona Tiki Hotel
Nights 1 and 2
Don't be too surprised if you click on the link for the Kona Tiki and get a "cannot find server" message. I don't know where this server is hosted, but it's not always there! This hotel is rated "Solid Gold Value" in the Wizard Publications "Hawaii The Big Island Revealed" guidebook. Based on my reading - and on the reaction I got when I called for a reservation - I expect it to be on the funky side. It's supposed to be an old-style and basic hotel with only 15 rooms located right on the ocean about a mile south of Kailua town. The hotel has no telephones and no air conditioning, but all of the rooms face the ocean. And one review I read said not to stay there if the sound of crashing waves disturbs you. That's not a problem for me - I love the sound of waves. When I called for the reservation, the woman who answered the phone said that they have a 3-night minimum. I asked if it was possible to waive that requirement figuring that the worst that would happen is that she would say no. And she did say no - but immediately proceeded to offer me a 2-night stay if I was willing to change rooms for the second night. Of course I said yes! They don't take credit cards and requested payment in full by check within 10 days. So my check was winging its way to Hawaii by priority mail the very next day. After staying at the Kona Tiki... This place is a real winner. It's laid back and friendly, a great place to stay. I arrived after the official front desk close time, and although I was given the super-secret location of my room key ahead of time, I didn't need to use it. The resident managers were sitting on the lanai chatting with other guests - Shirley came in to give me my key, and Jim hauled my bike case up the stairs for me! The continental breakfast in the morning was a good place to meet other guests, the rooms were more than acceptable, and the setting was unbelieveable. The hotel sits just behind a seawall, so the sound of waves crashing against the wall was constant. And since the swimming pool was also on the edge of the sea wall, it often had salt water added to it by the crashing surf.


Na'alehu --- Macadamia Meadows Farm B&B
Night 3
The pictures of this B&B look lovely, and Charlene Cowan graciously waived her 2-night minimum stay for me since I'm traveling by bicycle. She asked if I had any food allergies before we ended our conversation, told me that she'd keep an eye out for me since I'm traveling alone, and promptly sent me a confirmation and directions by email. In her email she mentioned that she was baking Portugese sweet bread that she was going to use in the next morning's french toast - yum! Sounds like I should expect a good breakfast here. After staying at Macadamia Meadows... Very bike friendly with excellent hosts. This is another great choice of a place to stay. The rooms are beautiful, I was given a sheltered and safe home for my bicycle, and the breakfast was wonderful. We had fruit, juice, coffee, and waffles with fresh macadamia nuts from their farm. But more than that - special treatment was provided for me as a cyclist. When I checked in, Courtney told me that Charlene would drive me into town for dinner. I really didn't want anything fancy and asked if there was any place where I could pick up a sandwich and other goodies. Since it was Sunday, Courtney called in to the Na'alehu Fruit Stand (also a store and bakery) - about 3 miles away - to get their closing time, then checked with Charlene and told me that she could drive me in to get my dinner in an hour. That gave me time to clean up first. On the way back Charlene asked if I'd like to see South Point, and then drove me there for a peek. To me that was really special, and I definitely appreciated the unsolicited transportation.
Volcano --- Aloha Junction B&B
Nights 4 and 5
Another B&B with a good web site - I'm always happy to see actual pictures to give me a warm feeling about the property. When I called to make the reservation and Susan asked how many people there would be I told her there would be one person and one bicycle. She responded by telling me that they'd just repaired their backyard jacuzzi - and that she thought I'd enjoy it after biking. That sounds good to me - bike from sea level to 4000 feet of elevation, then hop into a hot tub! I chose the room with at pillow-top queen bed, and was told that was the best choice in the house. I received a prompt confirmation and directions by email. After staying at Aloha Junction... Another fabulous B&B. The hosts own two houses on the grounds. They live in one, and use the second as the Bed & Breakfast - so the guests have access to the entire house. My room was lovely, and shared a bath with two other guest rooms. There was a wonderful living room with comfortable couches and a gas fireplace, a nice dining room, and a full kitchen which the guests were welcome to use. And there is a tree house out front that houses two twin beds - an interesting place to stay if you don't mind heights! There was a computer with internet access (free), and a jacuzzi in the back yard. Again, I was given a sheltered spot for my bike. The breakfasts here were out of this world. My first morning's breakfast was papaya, bananas, coffee, pancakes, and sausage. My second morning's breakfast was papaya, bananas, coffee, and a marvelous quiche. Aloha Junction is in Volcano Village, so it is walking distance to both a store and to several cafes and restaurants. I was on a Thai food kick while I was here, so I actually picked up take-out from the local Thai restaurant Thai Thai on both nights that I was here (great food, by the way). Both the host and the woman who did the cooking were wonderful. And as I was leaving, Robert told me to make sure to tell my friends about Aloha Junction, saying that they like to have cyclists stay there. I definitely recommend this one!
Hilo --- Arnott's Lodge
Nights 6 and 7
This lodge has tenting space, bunk rooms, private rooms with shared baths, and private rooms with private baths. I've decided to splurge on a private/private room (of course this splurge will still cost me less than any other night on this trip) - but I'm sure I'll be using the shared kitchen facilities and their Internet access. It sounds like a great place to meet other travelers. One of the things that attracted me is that Arnott's runs adventure tours since as they say, most of their guests don't have cars. I've signed up for two of their tours - the first to see the sunset and stars at the top of Mauna Kea, and the second a van trip and hike to the active lava flows. These tours are the reason I'm spending 2 days in Hilo - now I just have to hope that both Pele and the weather cooperate. After staying at Arnott's Lodge... This is my 4th place to stay on the Big Island, and my 4th good choice. A backpacker's lodge with a variety of types of lodging - make your choice to match your desired price point! The rooms were basic, clean, and comfortable. I chose a private room, but I was sharing a kitchen so I still had ample chance to meet other people. And I think because of the variety of room types, I met people of all different ages. And as a typical backpacker's lodge/hostel, there were people there from all over the world. In addition to the shared kitchen in the house, there was a general (outdoor but under cover) lounge and meeting area by the office. Internet access was available. I went on two of Arnott's adventure tours and they were both great. See my journal entries for more details on the Mauna Kea tour and the lava hike.
Waimea --- Waimea Country Lodge
Night 8
Searching on the web for a place to stay in Waimea was interesting, to say the least. It turns out that there are at least two cities called Waimea in the state of Hawaii - one on the island of Kauai, and one on the island of Hawaii. I did a bit of reading about some B&Bs before I realized that they were on the wrong island for this trip! The postal service in its infinite wisdom lists the Waimea on the Big Island as Kamuela. Hmm... are you confused yet? I've opted for a hotel here - there were a couple, but the one I chose is in easy walking distance of restaurants. I stayed here before when I did a supported tour of Hawaii with Backroads (I notice on their current trip that they appear to skip the night of lodging in Waimea), and I remember that it had decent rooms. After staying at Waimea Country Lodge... Another good place to stay. This one is really a regular motel. It looks like a strip motel from the outside, but the rooms are really quite nice and airy with a cathedral ceiling. They provide coffee and pastries in the morning, but I opted for a full breakfast at the restaurant next door.
Kohala Coast --- Mauna Kea Beach Hotel
Night 9
Another interesting place for Internet searches. I wanted to stay in a resort on the Kohala Coast - but if you're searching in one of the travel web sites (Orbitz, Expedia, etc.) you need to specify a city, not a region. The closest one here is Waikoloa. My last night in Hawaii is really a night and a full day since my flight home doesn't leave until 9:20 at night. I decided I wanted to stay at a resort overnight, and I plan to spend the day lounging and enjoying the beach. I've really splurged this time. I stayed at the Mauna Kea Beach Hotel once before - on the supported tour of Hawaii that I took with Backroads 3 years ago. I liked the hotel - it's very laid back, in a great location. I'm looking forward to a relaxing day here. I figure that I'll check out of the hotel, have them hold my luggage for the day, and then use their health club to grab a shower before I head out for my long flight home (overnight, and the entire next day!). After staying at the Mauna Kea... This place is really over the top. I loved it - but keep in mind that it's not the place to stay if you're trying to save money. The Mauna Kea Beach Hotel is a 5-star resort that is very classy and very laid back. The building I stayed in is the Beach Front wing, and - no surprise - all of the rooms face the beach. The room was beautiful, the setting was wonderful, and the service was superb. If you want to treat yourself - stay at the Mauna Kea!

Where? Around the island!

Once I made the decision to go to Hawaii, my plans came together very quickly. I've ridden the island before, so I have a good sense of distances and terrain. I found a biking guide on the PATH (People's Advocacy for Trails Hawai'i) web site that helped too.

I will be riding around the island, but as you look at my plans you'll see that this isn't a pure biking trip. I'll be biking, hiking, and doing a little relaxing too. It should be a well-rounded vacation.



Day by day...

This is a first for me. On my other solo trips, I've just gone with the flow, trusting that I'd find a place to stay when I decided the biking day was over. This time I have some specific things I want to see and do, and there are a couple of locations where there appear to be very few places to stay. I have no idea when high season is in Hawaii, but I suspect it's not the middle of May - so it's probably possible to just trust that I can find a place to stay at the end of the day. But even so, I planned this trip out, and made reservations for places to stay. Once I get to the Big Island, I'll just follow my plan. For anyone who wants a peek at it ahead of time, here's a view of my day to day plans.

Day From - To Transportation Activity
1 Boston to Kona plane travel, travel, travel
2 Kailua-Kona bike & by foot wander around by bike & on foot, get acclimated
3 Kailua to Na'alehu bike bike, what else!
4Na'alehu to Volcano bikebike
5 Volcano bike & by footwander & hike
6 Volcano to Hilobike & by vanbike + go to the top of Mauna Kea
7Hilovan & hikehike to active lava flows (I hope!)
8Hilo to Waimeabikebike
9Waimea to the Kohala Coastbikebike
10Kohala Coaststay still!relax on the beach
10 & 11Kona to Bostonplanetravel home

Thursday, March 27, 2003

The decision... circumnavigating the Big Island

Once I opted for warmth and sunshine, the Big Island (also known as the island of Hawaii) was an obvious choice for me. I fell in love with the Big Island the first time I visited there, and it's always high on my list of places that I'd like to visit again. I've been there twice before - once back in the early 1980's for a hiking trip, and again just 3 years ago for a supported biking trip. Ever since, I've wanted to return for a self-supported tour.

What, you say, returning to a place where I've biked before? Why?

> because it's beautiful...

> because everytime I go someplace, I see it through different eyes...

> because I haven't had enough of the Big Island...

> because there are places there that I haven't seen yet...

> because I want to!
This trip will be a ride around the island counterclockwise, starting and ending on the west coast. I've always been fascinated by the Hawaiian volcanos. My first trip to Hawaii was to the Big Island. Much to the dismay of my travel agent, who thought I should take a traditional Hawaii beach vacation, I spent most of my time in Hawaii Volcanos National Park. It was my first, but not my last, visit to the home of Pele. Pele is the Hawaiian goddess of volcanos. It is said that she makes her home in Halema'uma'u Crater within the Kilauea caldera. Even though I've been to the Big Island twice before, I've never been to see the active lava flows. On my first trip, the active flows weren't easily accessible. On my biking trip back in 2000, I could have gone, but... we had a rest day in the park. We stayed at Volcano House, the National Park lodge perched on the rim of the crater. To get there, we rode from sea level to the lodge at 4000 feet of elevation. For me to get to the active lava flows, I would have needed to ride downhill about 20 miles - almost back to sea level - and then back up again. Somehow that extra ride uphill didn't appeal to me at the time, so I went hiking instead. Laziness? I don't really think so! But I did need a rest (if you can call hiking resting!). This time I'm hoping to finally see the active lava flows. So I'm sending a big wish off to Madame Pele, and hoping that she provides a show! And I'm also planning to get to the top of Mauna Kea, another place that is somewhat hard to reach. For that I'm hoping for clear skies for our summit hike, sunset, and star viewing. My transportation to both of these wonders is via the van tours that Arnott's Lodge runs. Actually, the discovery of Arnott's adventure tours helped push me over the edge in my vacation decision. I always enjoy Hawaii, and the ability to get to two new places is a huge plus for me.




No parking? No kidding! And no biking either --- this stuff will melt bicycle tires. I'm hoping to see some interesting views like this one. Photo taken on April 1, 2003 (no, it's not an April Fool's joke), courtesy of the USGS Hawaii Volcano Observatory.



Now that I've made my decision, I'm really excited about my trip to Hawaii. It's still 7 weeks off. It seems like a long time away, but I know the time will fly by. My departure date will be here before I know it. As an aside - there's one more reason I need to visit Hawaii again with my bike. As I was looking for biking journals from folks who have traveled there, I noticed that Hawaii was the only state in the USA with zero journals on crazyguyonabike.com - I felt a need to fill in that spot. Not really - but I was pretty surprised that there wasn't a Hawaii journal on the site! The pictures below were taken on my previous biking trip to the Big Island. Seeing pictures helps me dream...